Skillbuilder 2017-18 - Wedding Ring by Fiona Nanson

The Romantic Double Wedding Ring Quilt Tradition 

(Click for a larger version)

Though the pattern was first published in the United States in the early 1920s, the quilt pattern can be found as early as the late 19th Century. The Double Wedding Ring quilt pattern has long been a symbol of love and romance with its interlocking rings symbolizing marriage. The quilt was traditionally made by mothers and grandmothers for their children and given as gifts on their wedding day or anniversaries. Due to the popularity and romantic history of the quilt, many families treasure these quilts and pass them from generation to generation.


Love and Quilting in the Depression Era

The pattern was especially popular during the Depression era, as it could be created using scraps of fabric from unused bedding or other projects. The same method can be used for your modern version if you’re looking to pair down the amount of scraps in your workplace or want to keep the pattern less formal than the more traditional colour scheme.

Regardless of the fabric it was made of, old American folklore suggests that a marriage was blessed if the couple spent their first night together under a Double Wedding Ring quilt, signifying its importance as a traditional wedding gift. It’s doubtful that you’d catch any children playing on such a quilt during this time, due to its importance.


A Modern, Creative Twist on an Old Quilt Pattern

Modern quilters have taken the traditional quilt design and added their own creative inspiration to it. While each quilt still maintains the appearance of the interlocking rings, diverse types and sizes of fabric can create a design that’s unique to the taste of the quilter. Many quilters have also bucked tradition by using a different, bolder colour than white, such as black or blue, for the background. The nontraditional colour choice gives the entire quilt a much quirkier vibe.

(Click for a larger version)

(Click for a larger version)

Due to the complexity of the pattern, the Double Wedding Ring quilt might be a hard one for beginners to attempt. It includes a lot of moving parts and can be frustrating on the first try but if you stick with it, you’ll be left with a gorgeous quilt that you can give as a gift to the loved ones in your life. Some quilters have even pulled together heirloom scraps of baby clothes and other cherished pieces of fabric add another sentimental element to the anniversary quilts made in this pattern.

(Click for a larger version)

(Click for a larger version)

If you’re getting bogged down by trying to create a fresh take on an old favourite, just stick to the original pattern and try out varied colour schemes or pull from your scrap pile. 

(Click for a larger version)

(Click for a larger version)

Regardless of your spin on the design, the circular pattern set against an open background makes for a pleasing piece of patchwork that will be an enduring staple in your home.

For some tips on making a Double Wedding Ring Quilt, check out this post:  http://www.joscountryjunction.com/tips-for-double-wedding-ring-quilt/

Quilt Alliance's Modern Wedding Ring pattern

Simplified Double Wedding Ring pattern

Skillbuilder 2017-18 - Drunkard’s Path by Shannon Fraser

Hi my fellow quilters! I'm Shannon from Shannon Fraser Designs popping in to talk about all things Drunkard's Path!!

Being a history buff, the Drunkard’s path block was an interesting past to delve into!

The design is believed to have originated in ancient Egypt but was popularized in the late 19^th century by quilters in the American colonies. This is where it gets a little interesting.

One story says that Drunkard’s path quilts were used to help guide slaves to freedom from the Underground Railroad. Different coloured squares would help guide their path to safety. Although this is highly debated.  Another theory is that women used the design during the Women’s Temperance Movement in the early 20^th century as a way of making their opinions known and trying to bring influence when they couldn’t vote.

The block itself is even known by many names such a Solomon’s Puzzle, Rocky Road to Kansas, Oregon Trail, with the most popular being Drunkard’s Path. The latter is said to have been attributed as the design of the block looks like a drunk person stumbling home.

Whatever the history, what we can agree on is how fun this quilt block is to play with!

THE TRADITIONAL BLOCK

The traditional block design features one “hill” against a solid background. Traditionally, the colours used in this quilt design were blue or red against a white background.

Circles can be a source of stress for a lot of quilters, but piecing the block is quite easy – you just need to take your time with it!

Materials Needed for the Traditional Drunkard’s Path Block

Drunkard’s Path ruler or self-made template

Fabric (1) large square at least 7" and (1) smaller square 5 ½" 

Pins

Rotary Cutter

To keep everything aligned, the key here will be accurate cutting and piecing. Plus, pins will most definitely be your friend when piecing the traditional block!

Here’s how to do it:

Start by cutting the “L” shape of your Drunkard’s path block from the 7" block.

Lay the template so it is flush with the bottom left corner.

Carefully cut along the curved edge of the template.

Set aside.

Repeat the same process with the 5 ½" square using the “pie” template.

Fold the “L” and “pie” shapes in half finger pressing, being careful not to pull or stretch the fabric.

Lay the “L” piece on top of the “Pie” shape lining up the folds. Pin.

Now pin each of the corners, making sure to line up the square edges.

Continue pinning in between these pins.

Stitch in place using a ¼" seam allowance. Take your time!

Set your seam with a hot iron, and press towards the “L” shape.

Voilà – you’ve made a Drunkard’s Path block!!

You can add as many “hills” as you want and it’s all achieved using the above method. Once you know the technique, you can apply it to any size Drunkard’s Path block.

LARGE DRUNKARD’S PATH BLOCK

To make a really big version, you often won’t find a template large enough for your needs. Nothing a large plate can’t fix!

Materials Needed

Large plate

Fabric (1) 13" square and (1) 9" square

Rotary Cutter

Here’s how to do it:

Start by laying your large 13" square out on your cutting mat. Using a large plate, align the edge of the plate along the 7 3/4" horizontal line on my mat and 8 1/2" along the vertical line. With your rotary cutter, cut along the edge of the plate. This creates your “L” shape.

Use the “Pie” you cut from the “L” shape as a template to cut your “Pie” from your 9” square. Lay the square out on the cutting mat, place the “Pie” on top and carefully cut along the edge.

Stitch together using the traditional pinning method described above.

Square up to 12 ½".

The technique is the same no matter what size block you want to achieve!

MODERN IMPROV BLOCK

What I particularly love about the Drunkard’s Path is approaching it with an improv flare.

This version abandons all use of templates and rulers to rely on your own freehand cutting style (the latter gets developed more and more with practice).

Materials Needed for the Modern Improv Drunkard’s Path Block

Fabric

Rotary Cutter

Imagination 😉

Here’s how to do it:

I love that this approach doesn’t require many tools. There is no precise cutting here and I forgo any pinning as well. Here’s a video to help show you exactly how you can use this technique too!

To make more at once, I like to stack a couple of fabric squares on top of one another before I start cutting.

Next, using my rotary cutter, I haphazardly cut a semi circle from one edge of the block to the other. Don’t worry if your line is wonky or uneven – that ads to the charm, in my opinion.

Now swap the mini circles with the larger “L” shaped pieces. Always working with the “L” shaped piece on top, line it up with the edge of your mini circle. Take a few stitches and then gently ease the top fabric edge along the curved edge of the bottom piece of fabric.

Go slow here.

You don’t want to pull or stretch the fabric into place, but rather just gently place it in alignment. Take a few stitches. Stop and arrange the fabric. Keep going until you get to the end.

Make sure the top and bottom fabric are flat, so you avoid any puckers.

Since we’re working without templates, we haven’t accounted for seam allowances which is why the edges won’t align (second photo below). Nothing a little trimming can’t fix 😉

When it comes to ironing, I find it best to first set your seam and then press away from the inner circle. I find this always helps ease out any bumps you may have created while stitching.

GET PLAYFUL

Now that know how to piece the block, the real fun can begin!

Here is where you need to let your imagination run free and think outside the box.

This is a traditional block with an added “hill”. You can add as many “hills” as you want for a very different look.

A few additional block examples I’ve made:

DRUNKARD’S PATH QUILT EXAMPLES

Here are some different interpretations of the Drunkard’s Path block to get your creative juices flowing!

Crop Circles by A Quilter’s Table

via

Tee Pattern by Carolyn Friedlander

via

Shockwave Strikes by Niagara Modern Quilt Guild

via

Solids Drunkards’ Path by Tricia Royal

via

Pin Wheel Drunkard’s Path by Jessica Kelly

via

Low Volume Drunkard’s Path featured on Penny Rose Fabrics

via

Saija Elina’s Modern Drunkard’s Path

via

NOW IT'S YOUR TURN!

Now it's your turn to create a modern take on the Drunkard's path block! Share your blocks on Facebook or Instagram, and feel free to tag the Montreal Modern Quilt Guild and/or use the hashtags: #mtlmqgskills  or  #mtlmqgskillbuilder

I've loved walking you through this tutorial. For some more inspiration please check out my Circles and Drunkard's Path board on Pinterest.

Be sure to reach out if you have any questions. You can find me on Instagram, Facebook and over on my site Shannon Fraser Designs.

Happy quilting!

Shannon

Skillbuilder 2017-18 - Orange peel blocks by Isabelle Durpas

Orange Peel blocks

         

*Isabelle a eu la gentillesse de fournir son texte en anglais et en français ... si vous préférez la version française, vous pouvez la trouver ici!

Presentation of the block
The Orange peel is a block consisting of four identical blocks in which are assembled a football shape flanked by two arched shapes that form a square. This block was first described in the 1895 annual catalog of the Ladies Art Company. However, popular legend has it that the block was created much earlier in the 19th century when the Marquis Lafayette came to Philadelphia. This distinguished guest was then offered an orange, a rare delight at the time, that he peeled by cutting the peel into four parts. A maid is said to have stolen the orange skin that would have inspired the quilt block in question. This is also why this block is also known as 'Lafayette orange peel'. This block is also known by other names. The most common being 'Melon patch', 'Joseph's coat' and 'Save a piece'. For more details on the origin of these names and the existing variants of this block, I recommend that you visit the Field Guide to Quilts site.


Construction
There are two distinct approaches to making an orange peel block, first by piecing, then by appliqués. This article discusses both techniques and their variations as follows:

1. Piecing
2. Appliqués
1. Raw-edge appliqués
2. Reversible appliqués with fusible lining
3. Needle turned appliqués and EPP

The piecing method is the original method dating from 1895. Appliqués later became more popular, in fact, it is easier nowadays to find appliqués method tutorials on the web. The piecing method gives by far the most elegant and satisfying results with sharp curves and perfect points. However, many quilters are reluctant to sew arches and curves and are more interested in the appliqué techniques.


Piecing construction
The piecing construction method requires the use of a template. Click on the link below for one that provides a block of adequate size to contribute to the charity quilt project of the Guild. When printing, make sure that the measurements are accurate with the measurement marks.

Get the Template

Each complete block requires 4 footballs and 8 contours. On each piece, be sure to mark the assembly points with a water soluble marker or any other temporary marking tool.

Before assembling, each piece should be folded in half and the centerline be marked. First you have to assemble a football with a contour, right sides facing each other. The curves require patience and many pins! Match the center marks, then the tip marks and pin.

Then, continue to add pins between each pair of pins to spread the fabric evenly and make the piece stable and easy to handle without the risk of creating unsightly tucks.

Assemble by sewing ¼ inch away from the edges. Take care to reduce the number of stitches per inch when approaching the tips to get one last point directly on the tip of each end before rotating the piece to sew the other side. Personally, I prefer to start to sew on one side of the football shape rather than on a tip, to avoid creating weakness at the tips.

Press the seam allowances to the outside of the football shape.

Repeat for the second contour of the block and press again ​​towards the outside of the football shape.

You must repeat this process for the other 3 parts of the block. Once finished, put the blocks together, first the top blocks together, then the bottom blocks together. To get a perfect orange peel block, it is very important to match the tips of the football shapes and to sew exactly on their edges. Pin more than necessary! The two blocks, once assembled, shall present two footballs whose points are fully visible, but that nearly touch at the center of the blocks. Press the seams ​​of the pair of blocks on either side of the center line: one pair to the right and the other to the left to facilitate the final assembly. As for the half-blocks, once again you must take special care to adjust the tips. Pin again! Iron by opening this last seam.

That's it, you have completed an orange peel!


Appliqués - Raw edge appliqués.
The raw edge appliqués are appliqués where the pieces of fabric are cut exactly to the final size. They are then affixed directly to a quarter of a block. To assemble a block with this technique, you need to cut 4 squares of 6 ½ inches and 4 football shapes without seam allowances.

To facilitate the application of the appliqués, I recommend using a water-soluble spray adhesive, such as 505 adhesive spray. Sewing can be done by a straight stitch very close to the edge or, for a decorative effect or additional protection against fraying, by a decorative stitch. These last ones recall the tradition of the embroidery made on the heirloom crazy quilts and can bring a quirky touch. Be careful not to exaggerate, too many patterns is certainly moving away from modern aesthetics. But you do what you like - this is the most important!

It is then easier to assemble the four parts made with this technique then those made by piecing, because there is much less seam allowance to manage. Again, for a neat finish, take care to match the ends of the footballs and sew exactly on their edges. Pin more than necessary! The two blocks, once open, must have two footballs points fully visible, but almost touching at the center of the block.


Appliqués - Reversible appliqués with fusible lining

This technique is very popular on the web and there are many videos and tutorials that demonstrate it.

To make an orange peel block with this technique, you will need 4 squares of 6 ½ inches, 4 football shapes with sewing values and 4 other football shapes with sewing values cut into a fusible interfacing.

It is first necessary to prepare the "sandwiches" by assembling the football in fabric with the one in interfacing, right side of the fabric on the sticky side of interfacing and sew a seam around the contour of the pieces. Again, it is important to take care of sewing beautiful tips to get a nice effect once the piece is reversed.

This sandwich must then be reversed. To do so, it is necessary to cut the fusible interlining in its center. It is good to cut the entire center line of the football, not to facilitate the turning, but to have more control when fusing with the iron. Turn the piece inside out, but do not iron it. The shape is then affixed to the square of fabric. Care is taken to carefully place the fusible lining underneath so that it is perfectly invisible after ironing. Be careful!

It is then recommended to sew the shape with a straight stitch over its entire outline, but some quilters might want to drop that step in order to have football shapes more similar to those obtained by assembly. This is possible only if the planned quilting is to be dense.

Here again, it is easier to assemble the four parts produced by this technique than by piecing because there are seams to manage. For a neat finish, always take care to match the tips of the footballs and sew exactly on their edges. Pin more than necessary! The two blocks, once open, must have two footballs points fully visible, but almost touching at the center of the block.

Appliqués - Needle turned appliqués and EPP

The last technique is a variant of the appliqué technique. If you are familiar with any of these techniques, it may be easy for you to use them to affix the shapes on the squares.

To prepare these appliqués, it is necessary to cut the football shapes with a seam allowance. In the case of needle-turned appliqués, the seam allowance is marked by a basting thread. In the case of English paper piecing, a rigid form allows to folding the seam allowance to the underside of the shape. You must remove the paper at the very end by removing it from the bottom of the entire block. I personally have not experimented this last variant of appliqué for the orange peel, but some people swear by this technique!

The final assembly is identical to the previous appliqués techniques and the same precautions are required.


Modernizing the orange peel
While making this tutorial, I found that the orange peel is a difficult block to modernize in its construction. I found no wonky orange peel! On the other hand, in the composition of a quilt or part of a quilt, it is possible to integrate the aesthetic principles of modern quilts. Here are some suggestions.

     

Asymmetry / Negative space

     

Scale / Minimalism / Asymmetry

     

Colors / Omissions

And finally, I have put together a Pinterest board with some tutorials and inspiration. You can find it here: Orange Peel Pinterest board

We would love to see what you make, so please share your blocks on Facebook or Instagram, and feel free to tag us and use the hashtags: #mtlmqgskills or #mtlmqgskillbuilder

Skillbuilder 2017-18 - Flying Geese blocks by Nathalie Forget

The Flying Geese is an easily recognizable simple block that consist of a large triangle (the goose), flanked by two smaller contrasting triangles (the sky). The traditional blocks are usually twice as wide as they are tall.

A similar block can also be created using HST blocks. The Flying Geese block can be substituted by two HST blocks sewn together in a mirror image to form the goose.

The block is a versatile one that is often incorporated in other traditional blocks (e.g. Louisiana block) or is the foundation piece for other traditional blocks (e.g. Dutchman Puzzle block).

Block Assembly

There are many methods for assembling the block and many tutorials available online. Below is a summary of criteria I found for five methods available. This should help you select the most suitable method for your projects. I also include cutting guidelines for the two most commonly used methods and links to tutorials for all of them.

Method 1 - Single Block Construction

• Traditional method 
• Can use small fabric scraps with this method 
• Suitable for directional fabric use and fussy cutting 
• Best if small number of blocks is required i.e. less than four identical blocks 
• Some waste of fabric 
• Good for making improv/wonky versions

Click to enlarge

See the first method of "Flying Geese - Make 'em fast - two methods" by Connecting Threads.

There is a tutorial for a modern wonky version of Method 1 entitled "Modern Monday - Block 18" by Jenifer Dick of 42 Quilts.


Method 2 - Four Unit No Waste Method

• Newer and most commonly used method 
• Yields four identical blocks 
• Cannot make use of small fabric scraps 
• Can only be used with non-directional fabrics. Not suitable for fussy cutting 
• Best if a large number of blocks is required i.e. more than four or multiples of four identical blocks required 
• No waste of fabric

Click to enlarge

Scroll down to the favorite quick method that yields 4 flying geese blocks with no waste of of "Flying Geese - Make 'em fast - two methods" by Connecting Threads.

There are excellent simple diagrams for Method 1 and 2 available in the "Super Simple Flying Geese Quilt Tutorial" by Suzy Quilts.


Method 3 - Four Unit Some Waste Method

• Similar to Method 2 but with less up-front cutting
• Helpful if you're not confident in your precision with your 1/4" seams
• Cannot make use of small fabric scraps
• Can only be used with non-directional fabrics. Not suitable for fussy cutting
• Best if a large number of blocks is required i.e. more than four or multiples of four identical blocks required
• Small amount of waste but more than for Method 2

See Method Three of "Flying Geese - Make 'em fast - two more methods" by Connecting Threads .


Method 4 - Dimensional One Seam (Folded Pocket or 3-D Method)

• Fastest method to sew
• Creates a dimensional effect that may be desirable for your design
• Can use small fabric scraps for the sky
• Most waste of fabric (double thickness of the goose)
• The crispness of the point can be difficult to achieve with the double thickness of the goose fabric.
• The double layer goose may also make the quilting more challenging

Scroll down to Method Four - Dimensional One Seam Flying Geese of "Flying Geese - Make 'em fast - two more methods" by Connecting Threads .


Method 5 - Paper Pieced Method

• Used for precision for perfect points for traditional blocks
• Used for curved or wonky setting of the geese
• Can use small fabric scraps with this method

“Flying Geese ~ Perfect Points” by Fresh Lemons Quilts (including downloadable templates)

"Drafting Your Own Paper Pieced Pattern ... Wonky Flying Geese Tutorial" by Why Not Sew

"Release the Geese" by Sarah Bond, Quilt Maker, PhillyMQG

I also include below links to a couple of interesting tutorials for HST Versions:

"Scrap Bin Geese block tutorial" by A Bright Corner.

“HST Challenge - Block Two - Dutchman's Puzzle/Wild Goose Chase” by Premium Precuts.

Click to enlarge

Click to enlarge

The following design components may be used and combined to give the quilt a more modern esthetic.

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Click to enlarge

Click to enlarge

For more examples and for inspiration, please refer to my Flying Geese Pinterest board.

We would love to see what you make, so please share your blocks on Facebook or Instagram, and feel free to tag us and use the hashtags: #mtlmqgskills or #mtlmqgskillbuilder