April 2018 Mtl MQG Meeting Minutes

April 2018 Mtl MQG Meeting Minutes

April 11, 2018 at 7pm SouthWest Mission, Verdun, QC

Business:

• Riley Blake fabric challenge: the MQG will mail the bundles to Claudia, but they will not be in time for the deadline.
• Humboltd Broncos: the Saskatoon MQG is organizing a quilt drive for the people affected by the bus crash. They are looking to collect 200 quilts. If you'd like to contribute or get more information, go to the https://saskatoonmqg.com/quilts-for-broncos/ website.
• Charity Quilt: our charity quilt from 2 years ago will be donated to the Syrian family during a presentation on April 29 at 12:30 PM. Check your email for all the details.
• Volunteers for the Executive: we are always looking for people who would be willing to become a member of the Executive Team. Not a huge time investment and lots of fun. If you are interested, please speak to any member of the current team.

Member Survey:

• There is still time to complete the survey if you haven't done so already. Also, please include as much information as possible. For example, if you'd like to see more demos, be specific about the demos you'd like to see.
• We will consolidate the feedback and present at the June meeting so please make sure you complete the survey by the May meeting. 
• Based on the feedback we've seen so far, here are a few ideas to consider:
• Workshop: Andrea Tsang Jackson from 3rd Story Workshop
• Meeting space: we cannot go back to the CRSC - they cannot accommodate our size, but we are looking into Fablab in NDG.
• Charity quilts: instead of making quilts, maybe we could consider making small zipper pouches or 1-hour baskets and fill them with goodies to give to shelters, etc.
• Challenge: make something with upcycled or recycled material.

Show and Tell:

• Izzy: baby quilt made from Shannon Fraser's pattern Spring is in the Air and Aeroplane Bag (pattern by Sew Sweetness)
• Debby: beautiful placemats for her new kitchen (pattern from the Midnight Quilt Show with Angela Walters)
• Dawn: shared 2 pretty baby quilts in pinks and soft purples
• Melanie: made 2 pillow covers for a friend - 1 with walking foot quilting that spelled MTL and 1 improv. She also shared a gorgeous hex quilt entirely made by hand over the last 6.5 years! Her quilt will be at the CQ Salon in May.
• Nathalie: she finished a charity quilt with the skill-builder blocks members made. She did a fabulous job with it!
• Maggie: showed us a beautiful baby quilt in very nice spring colours.
• Snezana: made a quilted vest in black and white.
• Josee: shared a fabulous quilt top she is making for her sofa.

Skill-builder Block: Drunkard's Path

Shannon Fraser presented this month's block. For more info, refer to our blog post.

Next meeting:

• Tuesday, May 8 at 7:00 PM at the Southwest Mission in Verdun
• Bring your hexies for the lottery - please use quilting cotton and do not baste through the papers!

Photos from the meeting can be viewed here.

Drunkard’s Path Block Tutorial

Hi my fellow quilters! I'm Shannon from Shannon Fraser Designs popping in to talk about all things Drunkard's Path!!

Being a history buff, the Drunkard’s path block was an interesting past to delve into!

The design is believed to have originated in ancient Egypt but was popularized in the late 19^th century by quilters in the American colonies. This is where it gets a little interesting.

One story says that Drunkard’s path quilts were used to help guide slaves to freedom from the Underground Railroad. Different coloured squares would help guide their path to safety. Although this is highly debated.  Another theory is that women used the design during the Women’s Temperance Movement in the early 20^th century as a way of making their opinions known and trying to bring influence when they couldn’t vote.

The block itself is even known by many names such a Solomon’s Puzzle, Rocky Road to Kansas, Oregon Trail, with the most popular being Drunkard’s Path. The latter is said to have been attributed as the design of the block looks like a drunk person stumbling home.

Whatever the history, what we can agree on is how fun this quilt block is to play with!

THE TRADITIONAL BLOCK

The traditional block design features one “hill” against a solid background. Traditionally, the colours used in this quilt design were blue or red against a white background.

Circles can be a source of stress for a lot of quilters, but piecing the block is quite easy – you just need to take your time with it!

Materials Needed for the Traditional Drunkard’s Path Block

Drunkard’s Path ruler or self-made template

Fabric (1) large square at least 7" and (1) smaller square 5 ½" 

Pins

Rotary Cutter

To keep everything aligned, the key here will be accurate cutting and piecing. Plus, pins will most definitely be your friend when piecing the traditional block!

Here’s how to do it:

Start by cutting the “L” shape of your Drunkard’s path block from the 7" block.

Lay the template so it is flush with the bottom left corner.

Carefully cut along the curved edge of the template.

Set aside.

Repeat the same process with the 5 ½" square using the “pie” template.

Fold the “L” and “pie” shapes in half finger pressing, being careful not to pull or stretch the fabric.

Lay the “L” piece on top of the “Pie” shape lining up the folds. Pin.

Now pin each of the corners, making sure to line up the square edges.

Continue pinning in between these pins.

Stitch in place using a ¼" seam allowance. Take your time!

Set your seam with a hot iron, and press towards the “L” shape.

Voilà – you’ve made a Drunkard’s Path block!!

You can add as many “hills” as you want and it’s all achieved using the above method. Once you know the technique, you can apply it to any size Drunkard’s Path block.

LARGE DRUNKARD’S PATH BLOCK

To make a really big version, you often won’t find a template large enough for your needs. Nothing a large plate can’t fix!

Materials Needed

Large plate

Fabric (1) 13" square and (1) 9" square

Rotary Cutter

Here’s how to do it:

Start by laying your large 13" square out on your cutting mat. Using a large plate, align the edge of the plate along the 7 3/4" horizontal line on my mat and 8 1/2" along the vertical line. With your rotary cutter, cut along the edge of the plate. This creates your “L” shape.

Use the “Pie” you cut from the “L” shape as a template to cut your “Pie” from your 9” square. Lay the square out on the cutting mat, place the “Pie” on top and carefully cut along the edge.

Stitch together using the traditional pinning method described above.

Square up to 12 ½".

The technique is the same no matter what size block you want to achieve!

MODERN IMPROV BLOCK

What I particularly love about the Drunkard’s Path is approaching it with an improv flare.

This version abandons all use of templates and rulers to rely on your own freehand cutting style (the latter gets developed more and more with practice).

Materials Needed for the Modern Improv Drunkard’s Path Block

Fabric

Rotary Cutter

Imagination 😉

Here’s how to do it:

I love that this approach doesn’t require many tools. There is no precise cutting here and I forgo any pinning as well. Here’s a video to help show you exactly how you can use this technique too!

To make more at once, I like to stack a couple of fabric squares on top of one another before I start cutting.

Next, using my rotary cutter, I haphazardly cut a semi circle from one edge of the block to the other. Don’t worry if your line is wonky or uneven – that ads to the charm, in my opinion.

Now swap the mini circles with the larger “L” shaped pieces. Always working with the “L” shaped piece on top, line it up with the edge of your mini circle. Take a few stitches and then gently ease the top fabric edge along the curved edge of the bottom piece of fabric.

Go slow here.

You don’t want to pull or stretch the fabric into place, but rather just gently place it in alignment. Take a few stitches. Stop and arrange the fabric. Keep going until you get to the end.

Make sure the top and bottom fabric are flat, so you avoid any puckers.

Since we’re working without templates, we haven’t accounted for seam allowances which is why the edges won’t align (second photo below). Nothing a little trimming can’t fix 😉

When it comes to ironing, I find it best to first set your seam and then press away from the inner circle. I find this always helps ease out any bumps you may have created while stitching.

GET PLAYFUL

Now that know how to piece the block, the real fun can begin!

Here is where you need to let your imagination run free and think outside the box.

This is a traditional block with an added “hill”. You can add as many “hills” as you want for a very different look.

A few additional block examples I’ve made:

DRUNKARD’S PATH QUILT EXAMPLES

Here are some different interpretations of the Drunkard’s Path block to get your creative juices flowing!

Crop Circles by A Quilter’s Table

via

Tee Pattern by Carolyn Friedlander

via

Shockwave Strikes by Niagara Modern Quilt Guild

via

Solids Drunkards’ Path by Tricia Royal

via

Pin Wheel Drunkard’s Path by Jessica Kelly

via

Low Volume Drunkard’s Path featured on Penny Rose Fabrics

via

Saija Elina’s Modern Drunkard’s Path

via

NOW IT'S YOUR TURN!

Now it's your turn to create a modern take on the Drunkard's path block! Share your blocks on Facebook or Instagram, and feel free to tag the Montreal Modern Quilt Guild and/or use the hashtags: #mtlmqgskills  or  #mtlmqgskillbuilder

I've loved walking you through this tutorial. For some more inspiration please check out my Circles and Drunkard's Path board on Pinterest.

Be sure to reach out if you have any questions. You can find me on Instagram, Facebook and over on my site Shannon Fraser Designs.

Happy quilting!

Shannon

EPP Hexie Lottery

Last meeting we swapped warm and cool charm sqaures!  The rainbow that we got was rather lovely.

At the May meeting (so there is still some time) we will be have a EPP hexie lottery. To participate, 4 x 1" English Paper Pieced hexies will get you 1 entry. Make more hexies and get more entries! If we get a very large quantity of hexies, we may create more than 1 lot.

You do not need to use the charms from the last swap. However charm squares can be cut into mini charms (2.5" squares) and they are the perfect size to make 1" hexagons with! You can use scraps, strips from jelly rolls or whatever fabric you would like! There is no colour or print restrictions for the lottery. However, please only submit hexies made of quilting cotton.

Another thing to ask is that the basting stitches only go through the fabric and not through the paper (makes it easier to pull out the paper without having to cut the basting threads)

 

The important thing to note, is that the edges of the hexagon is 1". There are a bunch of different templates out there. Everyone will agree that is the hexagons are set up in rows versus nested it makes cutting the paper templates much MUCH easier. I found a free template on Geta's Quilting Studios. The PDF have 6 different sizes, so please mach sure you are using the 1" (and that you are printing at 100%, not scaled to fit!)

Enjoy making your hexies! They are a great little project to do in a waiting room or while watching TV! The lottery will be held at the May 8th meeting.

Skillbuilder 2017-18 - Orange peel blocks by Isabelle Durpas

Orange Peel blocks

         

*Isabelle a eu la gentillesse de fournir son texte en anglais et en français ... si vous préférez la version française, vous pouvez la trouver ici!

Presentation of the block
The Orange peel is a block consisting of four identical blocks in which are assembled a football shape flanked by two arched shapes that form a square. This block was first described in the 1895 annual catalog of the Ladies Art Company. However, popular legend has it that the block was created much earlier in the 19th century when the Marquis Lafayette came to Philadelphia. This distinguished guest was then offered an orange, a rare delight at the time, that he peeled by cutting the peel into four parts. A maid is said to have stolen the orange skin that would have inspired the quilt block in question. This is also why this block is also known as 'Lafayette orange peel'. This block is also known by other names. The most common being 'Melon patch', 'Joseph's coat' and 'Save a piece'. For more details on the origin of these names and the existing variants of this block, I recommend that you visit the Field Guide to Quilts site.


Construction
There are two distinct approaches to making an orange peel block, first by piecing, then by appliqués. This article discusses both techniques and their variations as follows:

1. Piecing
2. Appliqués
1. Raw-edge appliqués
2. Reversible appliqués with fusible lining
3. Needle turned appliqués and EPP

The piecing method is the original method dating from 1895. Appliqués later became more popular, in fact, it is easier nowadays to find appliqués method tutorials on the web. The piecing method gives by far the most elegant and satisfying results with sharp curves and perfect points. However, many quilters are reluctant to sew arches and curves and are more interested in the appliqué techniques.


Piecing construction
The piecing construction method requires the use of a template. Click on the link below for one that provides a block of adequate size to contribute to the charity quilt project of the Guild. When printing, make sure that the measurements are accurate with the measurement marks.

Get the Template

Each complete block requires 4 footballs and 8 contours. On each piece, be sure to mark the assembly points with a water soluble marker or any other temporary marking tool.

Before assembling, each piece should be folded in half and the centerline be marked. First you have to assemble a football with a contour, right sides facing each other. The curves require patience and many pins! Match the center marks, then the tip marks and pin.

Then, continue to add pins between each pair of pins to spread the fabric evenly and make the piece stable and easy to handle without the risk of creating unsightly tucks.

Assemble by sewing ¼ inch away from the edges. Take care to reduce the number of stitches per inch when approaching the tips to get one last point directly on the tip of each end before rotating the piece to sew the other side. Personally, I prefer to start to sew on one side of the football shape rather than on a tip, to avoid creating weakness at the tips.

Press the seam allowances to the outside of the football shape.

Repeat for the second contour of the block and press again ​​towards the outside of the football shape.

You must repeat this process for the other 3 parts of the block. Once finished, put the blocks together, first the top blocks together, then the bottom blocks together. To get a perfect orange peel block, it is very important to match the tips of the football shapes and to sew exactly on their edges. Pin more than necessary! The two blocks, once assembled, shall present two footballs whose points are fully visible, but that nearly touch at the center of the blocks. Press the seams ​​of the pair of blocks on either side of the center line: one pair to the right and the other to the left to facilitate the final assembly. As for the half-blocks, once again you must take special care to adjust the tips. Pin again! Iron by opening this last seam.

That's it, you have completed an orange peel!


Appliqués - Raw edge appliqués.
The raw edge appliqués are appliqués where the pieces of fabric are cut exactly to the final size. They are then affixed directly to a quarter of a block. To assemble a block with this technique, you need to cut 4 squares of 6 ½ inches and 4 football shapes without seam allowances.

To facilitate the application of the appliqués, I recommend using a water-soluble spray adhesive, such as 505 adhesive spray. Sewing can be done by a straight stitch very close to the edge or, for a decorative effect or additional protection against fraying, by a decorative stitch. These last ones recall the tradition of the embroidery made on the heirloom crazy quilts and can bring a quirky touch. Be careful not to exaggerate, too many patterns is certainly moving away from modern aesthetics. But you do what you like - this is the most important!

It is then easier to assemble the four parts made with this technique then those made by piecing, because there is much less seam allowance to manage. Again, for a neat finish, take care to match the ends of the footballs and sew exactly on their edges. Pin more than necessary! The two blocks, once open, must have two footballs points fully visible, but almost touching at the center of the block.


Appliqués - Reversible appliqués with fusible lining

This technique is very popular on the web and there are many videos and tutorials that demonstrate it.

To make an orange peel block with this technique, you will need 4 squares of 6 ½ inches, 4 football shapes with sewing values and 4 other football shapes with sewing values cut into a fusible interfacing.

It is first necessary to prepare the "sandwiches" by assembling the football in fabric with the one in interfacing, right side of the fabric on the sticky side of interfacing and sew a seam around the contour of the pieces. Again, it is important to take care of sewing beautiful tips to get a nice effect once the piece is reversed.

This sandwich must then be reversed. To do so, it is necessary to cut the fusible interlining in its center. It is good to cut the entire center line of the football, not to facilitate the turning, but to have more control when fusing with the iron. Turn the piece inside out, but do not iron it. The shape is then affixed to the square of fabric. Care is taken to carefully place the fusible lining underneath so that it is perfectly invisible after ironing. Be careful!

It is then recommended to sew the shape with a straight stitch over its entire outline, but some quilters might want to drop that step in order to have football shapes more similar to those obtained by assembly. This is possible only if the planned quilting is to be dense.

Here again, it is easier to assemble the four parts produced by this technique than by piecing because there are seams to manage. For a neat finish, always take care to match the tips of the footballs and sew exactly on their edges. Pin more than necessary! The two blocks, once open, must have two footballs points fully visible, but almost touching at the center of the block.

Appliqués - Needle turned appliqués and EPP

The last technique is a variant of the appliqué technique. If you are familiar with any of these techniques, it may be easy for you to use them to affix the shapes on the squares.

To prepare these appliqués, it is necessary to cut the football shapes with a seam allowance. In the case of needle-turned appliqués, the seam allowance is marked by a basting thread. In the case of English paper piecing, a rigid form allows to folding the seam allowance to the underside of the shape. You must remove the paper at the very end by removing it from the bottom of the entire block. I personally have not experimented this last variant of appliqué for the orange peel, but some people swear by this technique!

The final assembly is identical to the previous appliqués techniques and the same precautions are required.


Modernizing the orange peel
While making this tutorial, I found that the orange peel is a difficult block to modernize in its construction. I found no wonky orange peel! On the other hand, in the composition of a quilt or part of a quilt, it is possible to integrate the aesthetic principles of modern quilts. Here are some suggestions.

     

Asymmetry / Negative space

     

Scale / Minimalism / Asymmetry

     

Colors / Omissions

And finally, I have put together a Pinterest board with some tutorials and inspiration. You can find it here: Orange Peel Pinterest board

We would love to see what you make, so please share your blocks on Facebook or Instagram, and feel free to tag us and use the hashtags: #mtlmqgskills or #mtlmqgskillbuilder

March 2018 Mtl MQG Meeting Minutes

March 2018 Mtl MQG Meeting Minutes
March 13, 2018 at 7pm SouthWest Mission, Verdun, QC

Business:
Raffle donations - May is the deadline
March 24th sewing talk about maintaining, using etc Featherweight machines

Charity quilt: who is donating their time and talent etc what can you contribute? do you need to help in?
Plan to be done by June meeting.

MQG – modern inspirations booklet sent to the guild.

The Modern Quilt Designs of the New Century – Cinza showed her copy
https://www.amazon.ca/Modern-Quilts-Designs-New-Century/dp/1617455989/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520983130&sr=8-1&keywords=modern+quilts+designs+of+the+new+century

If interested in setting up a sharing library speak to Stephanie

Member went to Victoria Finley Wolfe’s shop in NYC – very nice - https://vfwquilts.com/

Submissions to the CCQ salon Francine has two, Cinzia submitted two, anyone else?
Deadline Was March 8.  

Twist festival update to come by email. Tamara will have a booth and a class

Gallery d’or in Joliette -  Isabelle has a quilt

Charm Swap piles on table. Next a hexagon lottery. 1” hexagon lottery see link for pdf

Show and Tell

https://photos.app.goo.gl/McambRqMrSQ92Cqf2

Stephanie – Michael miller
Agnes Korean style pojagi – French seams window cover
Michele – daddy diaper bag
Cinzi nuit blanche – pillow with velveteen
Tamara – swoopy appliqué
Jessica – quilt con in Pasadena-
Lily – fidget quilt

Skill builder block of the month:  orange peal -
Isabelle D. - Orange Peel

Coming up:
Next meeting - Tuesday April 10th at 7pm
Next sew-in - Saturday March 24th at 10am - Featherweight talk by Michelle

Skillbuilder 2017-18 - HRT blocks by Josée Carrier

I love HRTs (half-rectangle triangles). I guess that is why I was asked to do a demo for our skill builder project. I have used HRTs in few projects my-self. Here are few pictures.

Facets quilt by Josée Carrier

HRT table runner by Josée Carrier

HRT table runner by Josée Carrier

 HRTs offer the same endless layout possibilities as HSTs (half-square triangles). But, the difference in width and height adds another dimension to projects. Further more, you can create curve effects by playing with the proportions of your units. This can really add movement to your designs.

Techniques for HRT units

While working on my projects and preparing for this demo, I have explored different techniques for making HRTs.

The difference with HSTs is the angle at which you need to assemble the two right-angled triangles to form a rectangle. Since it's not a 45° angle, it makes alignement of the two pieces more challenging.  You can't just put two pieces of fabric right side together (with edges aligned) and sew on each side of the diagonal to obtain two units. You need to figure out at which angle to align and sew the pieces of fabric.

The other difficulty with HRTs is that you need to plan the orientation of your unit. With HSTs, you just need to rotate your finished unit by 90° to change the orientation of the diagonal. You can't just flip a HRTs because of the difference of width and height. You need to plan ahead if your design requires a diagonal from upper left corner to lower right corner or a diagonal from upper right corner to lower left corner.

Here is a summary of techniques with some links to great references.

Paper piecing

Paper piecing is one solution. It is the most precise technique. However, it's probably not the fastest one. And you'll probably end-up with more fabric lost. If you do love paper piecing,  here is a great tutorial by Wayne Kollinger for making HRTs.

Cutting with rulers

You can also use rulers to cut your triangles at the right angle. There are a variety of rulers available. Here are a few: Split Rects ruler, Recs tool and Perfect Rectangle ruler. All rulers I have seen allows to create HRTs for which the height of the finished unit is twice the width (2 to 1 ratio). In most "traditional" blocks, the HRTs have that proportion. Here is a tutorial by Wayne Kollinger and a video by Deb Tucker (Split Rects) explaining how to use them.

Cutting without rulers

Here is another tutorial by Wayne Kollinger explaining how to cut the triangles without the rulers. Again this applies to HRTs with a finished height that is twice its width (2:1 ratio). The main disadvantage with the last two techniques is that you need to sew on bias cut edges.

Alignement using templates

One solution to this is to make your HRTs like HSTs: by sewing on the two sides of a diagonal and by cutting it in half on the diagonal. In that case you end up with two units with the same orientation.  To do so, you need to find at which angle to align the two rectangles. In previous projects,  I had prepared alignement templates for different sizes of finished HRTs. I had written a tutorial on Sew Mama Sew explaining that technique. The limitation of this technique is that you are limited to sizes (proportions) for which the templates were built for.

Alignement using marks

You can also align the rectangles using a technique proposed by Latifaah Saafir. She marks dots on both pieces at two opposite corners to form a diagonal. She marks her dots at 1/4" from each edges. This works great for finished HRTs with a 3:2 ratio (like HRTs with finished sized 4"x 6"). You can find the tutorial on The Modern Quilt Guild blog and you'll find a demo in an Episode of Fresh Quilting. I have found however that the HRT's finished size is less predictable for other proportions as the rectangle is not sewn at the right angle. 

Tutorial

Here is a small variation on the technique shown by Latifah Saafir to make it work with units of different proportions.

Cutting

First, cut your 2 rectangles one inch wider and longer than the HRT's finished size. So for a finished HRT of 4" x 6" (unfinished: 4 1/2" x 6 1/2"), cut your 2 rectangles 5" x 7".

Marking

Mark dots for the diagonal at 1/2" from edges at opposite corners on the wrong side of each rectangle (with the same orientation).

Mark the diagonal by tracing a line passing by both dots on one of the rectangle.

Positioning

To align the rectangles, place them right side together with the one with the diagonal on top. Use a needle to pass though the dots of a marked corner on both pieces.

Repeat for the second corner.

Sewing and cutting

Sew on each side of the diagonal at 1/4" from the line. Then cut on the diagonal.

Trimming

Open-up your unit and press.  Then proceed with trimming, which is the key to good points. The HRT's unfinished size (or cutting size) is 1/2 inch wider and longer than the HRT's finished size. So, for a finished HRT of 4" x 6", you need to trim it to 4 1/2" x 6 1/2". 

For trimming, I find helpful to mark circles on the ruler to see the end-points of the diagonal on the finished HRT. For a HRT with a diagonal from upper right corner to lower left corner, I'll draw a first circle at 1/4" from each edges (to account for seam allowance). And I'll draw a second circle at 4 1/4" from the right edge of the ruler and at 6 1/4" from the top edge of the ruler.

Then position the ruler on your assembled unit to have the diagonal seam running through both circles and trim a first corner.

Then turn around and trim the second corner in the same manner. Just a note, the longer and narrower HRTs offer less room to trim in width.

That is it! With this technique, you end up with two units in the same direction. I invite you to try the different techniques and find the one what works best for you and the project you'll be working on.

Inspiration

Now I leave you with some inspiration for your future projects. Here is a Pinterest board I created with ideas on how to use HRTs in your quilts and other great resources. My favorite quilts using HRTs to date are the following:

• Tilting at Windmills by Susan Strong
• Buzzed Birds by Latifah Saafir

Blocks

Also, here is a few blocks I have prepared for the demo with links to instructions for each of them.

She Bear Block by Deb Tucker with instructions

Liberty Star Block by from Piece N Quilt

HRT With A Twist ~ Block by Jayne from Twiggy & Opal

A more 'improv' one playing with block proportions. I think this would make an interesting border.

I had fun playing with the layout for this one. Hope they can inspire you!